The Differences Between 9ct, 14ct and 18ct Gold
Gold is likely the precious metal you’re most familiar with. It has a long history of being used to create beautiful decorative touches in art, architecture, and jewellery and these uses have cemented its importance in design and culture across human history.
When shopping for gold jewellery, there are several factors you will need to consider, and you may be wondering what these mean for the pieces you’re eyeing. Pricepoint, colour, characteristics; how do you discern between the options? Let’s explore carat weight here, which is the biggest consideration when shopping for gold jewellery and affects the material characteristics as you will see. The three most common carats used in the UK are 9, 14 and 18. Let me break them down for you and share which variations I choose to work with and why:
The Know on 9ct
9 carat is commonly used in the UK as an entry point for gold jewellery. It is still considered ‘solid gold’ but contains the lowest percentage of gold compared with 14ct or 18ct. It’s hallmark ‘375’ denotes this quantity as it contains 37.5% gold. Since pure gold is considered a soft metal which can scuff easily, 9ct is a more robust choice thanks to the other metal alloys that comprise it. This also means that 9ct is the hardest of the three most common carat weights used for gold in the UK, but also interestingly more brittle as it has a lower tensile strength. But do not worry, knowing how to care for your 9ct pieces will combat any potential breakage that could occur over long periods of wear.
14ct Sweet Spot
Adopted from US market standards roughly 10 years ago, 14ct is becoming more commonly used by British designers now too. There are many reasons for this shift in popularity, the first is so their work can be sold by American wholesalers (many of whom consider it to be their starting carat weight). Also because it is made up of 58.5% pure gold, this makes it an ideal midway point between 9ct and 18ct in terms of gold composition and pricepoint. It also marks a nice midway point in colour as it is not as yellow in appearance as 18ct, but still has a nice warm glow. These factors have contributed to its rise in popularity in the UK, and are the reasons I have chosen to use it in all my jewellery designs.
On 18ct and Above
As you may have deduced, 18ct is the most durable of the three categories as it has the highest tensile strength. However as it is made up of 75% pure gold this also makes it the softest of the three which means it can mark more easily than 9ct or 14ct. Its high gold content also means it has the highest price point which is an important consideration for many of my customers. But its beautiful rich yellow colour cannot be beat!
I also offer 22ct on request, but since it’s almost pure gold it is very soft and marks easily. My previous customers who have chosen this have sought after this worn and textured finish created over time. It is also by far the most yellow of the three in colour.
Warm golden tones not quite your style? Platinum, 14ct and 18ct white gold, and rose gold are also great choices you can request when working with me.
Pointers On Platinum vs White Gold
If you are looking for a bright white metal I would recommend opting for platinum over white gold as its natural finish is significantly brighter than white gold, appearing more illuminated. That said, if you are more partial to a warmer tone then white gold could be for you, as its gold content gives it a depth of colour. And if you wanted to make it appear brighter, you could always occasionally rhodium plate it to increase its sparkle!
How Do You Know Which Material Your Jewellery is Made From?
The most reliable way to check is to look for a hallmark: the stamp applied to all precious metal goods made in the UK. This is a legal requirement carried out by designated offices who test the metal to confirm the material it is made from.
Hallmarks are made up of a series of symbols and numbers which signify different traits; the location where it was made, the year it was made, the person who made it, its material type and lastly its fineness (eg. 9ct. 14ct, 18ct in the case of gold).
These marks provide quality guarantees for customers and are typically out of view during normal wear.
Read more about hallmarks here, and how to care for your precious metal jewellery here.
